ULTRA-PARTS Timing Chain Kits Are Designed To Reinstate The Correct Tension & Geometry Between Crankshaft & Camshaft Sprockets And Thus Provide Quiet Running & Improved Performance. Installation And Timing To Be As Per Manufacturers Workshop Manual. Some Applications May Require This Additional Purchase Of A Sump Gasket Depending On The Depth Of The Repair.
A.) Basic Kits (Without Gears) Will Require The Drive Sprockets Checking For Teeth Wear & Fatigue Pitting. Wrap The New Chain Around The Cleaned Camshaft Sprocket As To Form A Circle With The Chain. Pinch The Join Of The Chain With One Hand With The Rollers Pushed Firmly Intoward The Sprocket Centre. With The Other Hand Work Your Way Around The Chain / Sprocket Trying To Pull The Chain Outwards. Any Appreciable Lift / Free Play Could Mean That The Sprocket Teeth Are Worn And Replacement Will Be Necessary. Visually, Sprocket Teeth Wear And Become "Hooked" On The Drive Side - Again Sprockets Must Be Renewed. Repeat Procedure On Crankshaft Sprocket
B.) Check The Chain For Provision Of A Connecting Link Visible By The "Omega / Horse Shoe" Retaining Clip. Chains With Connector Links Must Be Fitted With The Open End Of The Clip Trailing In The Direction Of Rotation, i.e. The Rounded Solid End Of The Clip Should Lead Clockwise
C.) Always Double Check Timing Before Installation Of The Timing Cover. Rotate Engine By Hand Via The Crank Pulley Nut/Bolt And Obtain Top Dead Centre Again. Recheck Timing Marks. Ensure Any Locktabs Are Present And Tabbed Over.
D.) Ensure Chain Tension Mechanism Is Working And Is Firmly Pressed Against The Chain. Do NOT Turn Engine Over Backwards As Some Tensioners Can Jump Backwards.
E.) Do NOT Use Silicone Sealer On Gaskets. A Light Coating of Oil Is Sufficient To Assemble Good / Clean / Flat Mating Surfaces. However, If A Propriety Sealer Is To Be Employed We Would Recommend "Well-Seal" Which Due To Its Thin Consistency Is Not Invasive.
F.) Oil Seals Must Be Installed Squarely And Without Tearing. Check Front Pulley Bosses For Seal Groove Wear. If Dirt / Rust / And Or A Wear Groove Are Present, Then Clean And Polish With Some Fine Wet & Dry Emery Paper (Say 320-400 Grade). Assemble Pulley To Seal With Either A Smear Of Grease Or Good Application Of Engine Oil. Apply A Loctite Adhesive To Front Pulley Nut/Bolt Or Use Locktab As Designed.


In All Cases Observe The Fitting Instructions Supplied With The Ring Set. Generally Re-Ringing Is Recommended Where The Following Conditions Exist.
A.) Bore Wear At Top Of Block Is No More Than 0.10mm / 0.004" To 0.15mm / 0.006". A Prominent "Wear Lip" Or Wear Exceeding These Figures Will Require A Rebore And Hone.
B.) Bore Glaze Or "Mirroring" Must Be Removed With A Dedicated Stone / Honing System And A Cross Hatch Finish Reinstated On The Bore Wall. During This Process It Is Obviously Recommended To Remove As Little Stock Removal As Possible, Otherwise The Bore Will Become Too Big.
C.) Pistons Must Be Thoroughly Cleaned And All Traces Of Imbedded Ring Groove Carbon Removed. Soaking In A Decarbonising Solution Might Be Necessary. An Old Fashioned Tip Is To Break An Existing Ring In Half And Grind End To A Chisel Point. The Old Ring Can Then Be Used As A Scrape To Remove Carbon. Do Not Use Hacksaw Blades To Clean Grooves As Damage To The Lands Will Occur.
D.) Hold Cleaned Piston Upto Light And Check Squareness And Flatness Of Ring Grooves. Any Radiused Or Burnished Faces Will Allow The Ring To move Within The Groove Confines & "Pumping" (Oil Burning) Will Result. Likewise Check For Groove Wear by Simply Guiding The Appropriate Ring Adjacent And Into The Piston Groove (Effectively Creating Two Side By Side Circles). Check Ring Is A Nice Slide Fit With No Lateral Movement And Roll Around The Piston As To Check The Entire 360 Degrees Repeat On All Grooves.
E.) Having Proved The Piston, Thoroughly Finish Clean To Dry Surface And Similarly Finish Clean Bores. Assemble The Rings Onto The Piston As Per The Box Instructions, Ensuring That Respective Gaps Are Positioned As Far From Its Neighbour As Possible. Liberally Coat The Ring Assembly And Bore Walls With Clean Engine Oil And insert The Piston Using A Recognised Piston Ring Compressor. Lightly Tap The Piston Crown Using A Hammer Shaft And Install Piston Into Bore. If During This Assembly The Piston Appears To Go "Tight" Do Not Continue Installation, But Re Apply Ring Compressor And Repeat Procedure. Finish Assemble The Engine With Emphasis On Cleanliness And Address Valve Guide Wear / Valve Stem Seals etc. We Always Recommend To Attain Oil Pressure With Spark Plugs / Diesel Injectors Removed - What Ever The Repair.
F.) Finish Prepare And Start Engine. Profuse Smoking Will Occur For The First Two To Three Minutes. Rectify Fuel To Air Ratio To Obtain Emissions Within M.O.T Laws. Excessive Fuel Will Promote "Bore Wash" And Rapid Ring Wear Will Occur. Run Engine In For 500 Miles By Varying Speeds/ Rev Ranges Within Sensible Parameters. Driving Sensibly Within Legal Speed Limits Is A Good Guide, Containing Top Speed To Say 60 M.P.H.. Check Engine Oil levels Daily Until Confidence Is Attained. Change To A Multigrade Oil After The First 500 - 1000 Miles And Continue To Observe Oil Levels. Running In May Take Upto 3,000 Miles Especially Considering The Possible Wear On The Existing Worn Bores.

A.) Always Mark & Number Main And Con Rod Caps To One Side Of The Components To Ensure Each Is Replaced In the Exact Configuration As Before. "DO NOT" Letter Stamp Or Centre Punch Markings As Housing Distortion Could Occur. A Bearing Failure Which Has Damaged The Crank Could Have Also Damaged The Respective Housing, Especially If Shell Spinning Has Occurred. Housing Wear Of This Type Can Only Be Rectified By A Bona-Fide Engine Reconditioner.
B.) In All Circumstances The Crank Journals Should Be Measured To Establish Any Wear And Actual Size. (See Buyers Guide Which Lists "STANDARD" Journal Sizes.) Any Wear Which Renders The Cranks Dimensions Outside The Listed Measurements Should Result In The Crank being Reground. Likewise If Scoring Of Journals Is Visible Then The Crank Should Be Reground And Undersize Shells Employed. Logically A Crank That Has Suffered Scoring My Be Housed In An Engine With Inherent Particle Contamination And A Complete Strip Down And Thorough Clean Is The Only Remedy
C.) Assuming Normal Replacement We Recommend Assembly With A Viscous Lubricant Such As S.T.P, Wynns Or Graphogen. Always Prime / Purge Oil Pump And Oil Ways And Attain Oil Pressure With Spark Plugs / Diesel Injectors Removed, Run New Shells In With Moderate Engine Speeds For At least 500 -1000 Miles.

A.) DO NOT Overhaul Oil Pumps If The Rotor Housings Are Badly Scored. Always Assemble Outer Rotors With The Heavy Circumferential Chamfer Leading. Always Prime Oil Pumps With Heavy Viscous Oil To Increase Purging Suction. Always Check Oil Pick Up Pipe Flange For Flatness. Check Con Rod & Main Bearings etc. For Excessive Wear. Ensure Sump And All Oil Wash Areas Including The Valve Train And Head Well Area Are Perfectly Clean. Always Attain Oil Pressure With SPARK PLUGS/DIESEL INJECTORS REMOVED. Do NOT Fit Oil Pumps Driven By Crank Nose If The Crank Drive Flats Show Any Appreciable Wear. Failure To Observe Can Result In The Oil Pump Hub Fracturing To Destruction.